Middle East 2020 part one
“Try this. The Lebanese food is the best in the world!”
He
pushed a plate across the table towards me.
I laughed. “Isn’t that what pretty much every person says
about their own cuisine? Except for us British maybe though I think that’s a
tad unfair. We have some great healthy home cooked dishes. It’s not just all fish
and chips and bangers and mash you know.” I was suddenly struck with a flash of
national pride. Something rather unusual for me.
He looked puzzled. “Bangers?”
“Oh sorry. Yes, a colloquial expression for sausages.”
“Eat, eat.” He gestured again toward the dish before me. I took
a mouthful and felt an explosion of flavours fill my mouth. “Wow, that is very tasty!
What’s it called?”
“Mujadara” He smiled proudly as if he’d made the dish
himself. That national pride again. “I told you, you would like it. I’m rarely
wrong.” He paused, “About anything.” He added with only a hint of irony.
Hmm. There’s self -assurance and confidence and then there’s
just downright arrogance.
I raised my eyebrows. “Let’s leave that one open to
discussion. But in the meantime, you were definitely right about the food at
least.”
I took another mouthful and relaxed back in my chair. I closed my eyes, feeling
the warm sun upon my face, the gentle breeze caressing my hair. An infusion of
exotic tastes in my mouth, as the scent of spices and shisha filled my
nostrils. The murmur of a thousand different tongues around me. I felt deliciously lazy and at ease. For a brief moment I didn’t have a care in the world.
“I’ve spent most of my life in the Med as well as being
brought up with Indian food. I think I’m going to get the best of both worlds
with the Lebanese food.”
I’d spent some time researching Lebanon, it’s history
and current political situation. It looked like a fascinating
country with an equally fascinating history though sadly a bloody and unstable
one to match.
“You know it makes me sad. I’d love to visit your country. It
looks stunning.” A combination of emotions crossed his face. For a fleeting
moment he looked angry. He shook his head in annoyance and
despair. I immediately regretted bringing up the subject.
“I’m sorry.”
He shook his head and raised his hand to put an
end to my apologies. “No apologies needed. Our country is fucked. Now more than
ever. It makes me so angry. We get fucked from all sides. Inside, outside. I
feel for my people. If it wasn’t for us Lebanese outside the country sending
money back home, God knows what would happen.” He shuddered. Then momentarily
smiled once more. “I like that you are interested in our country. That is good.”
He sat back satisfied at this conclusion of events. I’d passed the test. I
liked his national cuisine and I was genuinely interested in his country.
He motioned to the waiter and said something quickly in
Arabic. “Wait till you see what’s coming next” He pushed his dark hair away
from his piercing green eyes and readjusted his expensive designer shades.
“We will eat some more then walk. There’s something I want
to show you.” I’d become used to his way of talking, almost as if everything
were a command. Some of this I knew to be linguistic differences, from his
native Arabic to English. The rest was his way with everyone. A leader, a highly
successful businessman, both admired and feared. Used to being obeyed. This
obviously did not wash with me but I was learning to keep some of my opinions
to myself, take advantage of the situation and to learn as much as possible
from a highly accomplished individual. This kind of meeting was invaluable.
We stayed a while longer, chatting idly about not very much,
enjoying the food and the views. I looked out towards the Marina. The sun
glinting off the Persian Gulf, the luxury yachts, the tourist boats, the jet
skis…everything seemed so calm, so normal, so deceivingly peaceful…
He looked at his watch. “Come we must go. I want to show you
something.” That command again. I obeyed obediently.
…….
The Ferrari came to a screeching halt. The passersby all
turned to stare. I got out the vehicle feeling the weight of their curiosity. These
kind of cars were the norm around here but still they drew attention.
“Quick or we will miss it.” We joined a crowd of other spectators,
laughing chatting, taking selfies. I still got that feeling of being in a
parallel universe. All this seemed so nice, so harmless, so normal and yet
things were so very far from normal or were about to be.
The sun put on a show that dazzled us all. A spectacular
descent, a dazzling display of colours and hues. The transition from dusk to darkness, as the
veil fell the scene would change. Sensations, feelings, behaviors. What was
it about the darkness that both incited excitement and fear?
The crowd applauded as the sun exited for another day. “So?”
He turned awaiting my response.
“Yes, just like the Mujadara, you got it right again. Stunning.
I’m impressed. You can quit impressing me now.” He looked momentarily taken
aback. “I wasn’t trying to impress you I just like to make outsiders feel
welcome.” He retorted stiffly.
“I’m joking! That’s my ironic British humour. I’ve been
greatly impressed so far and enjoyed every moment. I’m deeply grateful for your
generosity. It’s a way of saying thank you, that I’m more than happy to
continue but I also just want you to know I already believe we’re on the same
page so anything else you show me is a gift but you don’t need to in order to
convert me.” My tone was gentle as I took his arm and motioned for him to walk
alongside me. He grunted in grudging acceptance and for once let me take the
lead.
We strolled in easy silence, both lost in our own thoughts. The
sky grew steadily darker and the stars came out to play. The sound of laughter
and music filled the air as the night came alive around us.
Finally, we came to a stop and sat down on a bench looking
out to sea. I pulled on my denim and shivered slightly as the temperature
abruptly fell. “Cold?” he asked. “No, I’m fine. Just the drop was very sudden
and took me by surprise.” I responded. “Welcome to the desert” He retorted with
a slight smile.
“So, you say we’re on the same page. I recall someone close
to you saying the same thing which is why we met in the same place. And what
does that mean exactly?”
And so it began.
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